Winter cycling around the Étang de Thau: why the low season is perfect for a ride

Once the summer holidaymakers have gone home, the Étang de Thau takes on a different mood. The cycle paths empty, the light softens and the crisp air makes you want to get moving. Plenty of people put their bikes away along with their swimming costumes. Yet for a low-season bike ride in the Hérault, winter is one of the best times of year. At Artimon Bike in Marseillan, we explain why November to March is well worth the trip, and how to prepare for the wind and the cold.

Why winter cycling around the Étang de Thau is a real joy

Peace and quiet

In summer, the Lido greenway and the quaysides are very busy. In winter, you'll often have the path almost to yourself. It's ideal for riding at your own pace, stopping wherever you like for a photo, or letting the children pedal more freely on the traffic-free sections.

The Lido greenway, which links Marseillan-Plage to Sète over about 12 km, was built on a former stretch of main road. It's flat, runs alongside the dunes and is perfect for a relaxed winter ride, even with less experienced cyclists.

Exceptional light

The Hérault is one of the sunniest departments in France, with around 2,800 hours of sunshine a year, well above the national average. In winter the sun stays low on the horizon: reflections on the lagoon, oyster beds silhouetted against the light and sunsets over the water are especially photogenic. On days when the tramontane blows, the sky is often a pure, deep blue and visibility across the lagoon is remarkable.

Pleasantly fresh for cycling

The Mediterranean climate brings mild winters. By the water, average minimum temperatures hover around 4 °C in winter, and sunny afternoons are often very pleasant. For cycling, this freshness is a real plus: you sweat less than in high summer, you don't need to hunt for shade, and you can ride in the early afternoon without worrying about the heat.

Nature on display

Winter is also a great season for birdwatchers. In the Thau area, a good number of the flamingos are resident, so you have a good chance of spotting them all year round. In winter, other visiting species frequent the lagoon, such as the great cormorant and the reed bunting. The Bagnas nature reserve in Marseillan is renowned for watching flamingos and wading birds. Remember to bring binoculars and to keep quiet so as not to disturb the birds.

The wind: getting to know the tramontane and the marin

Around the Thau basin, it isn't really the rain that decides your day, it's the wind. The Gulf of Lion is one of the windiest areas of the Mediterranean. Here's what you need to know before setting off.

The winds to know

• The tramontane: a north-westerly wind coming down from the Pyrenees. Cold and dry, it clears the sky but can blow very hard.
• The mistral: also from the north-west, it funnels down the Rhône valley.
• The marin: an easterly wind, milder and damper, which often brings rain.

The tramontane and the mistral can exceed 100 km/h, especially in winter and spring. The good news: these gales are usually forecast several days in advance.

Cycling in the tramontane: our tips

• Check the forecast the evening before and in the morning, paying particular attention to gust strength. If a strong blow is forecast, move your ride: if you're staying a few days, there's almost always a calmer window.
• Set off into the wind, come back with it behind you. You tackle the hard part while you're fresh, and the return leg becomes a real pleasure.
• Shorten your loop on windy days. A lovely two-hour ride is better than a long, exhausting day.
• Watch out for crosswinds, especially on exposed sections such as the Lido: keep a firm grip on the handlebars and leave plenty of room around other path users.
• Ease off the pace a little and use your gears: a lighter gear into the wind stops you wearing yourself out.
• Think about the wind chill: when the tramontane blows in winter, the temperature can feel below freezing, even in bright sunshine.

The e-bike, your best ally against the wind

With a headwind, electric assistance makes all the difference. It lets everyone keep up with the group, helps parents tow a child with less stress, and means everyone can enjoy the scenery instead of battling the elements. At Artimon Bike, you can choose between a standard electric bike and an electric mountain/hybrid bike, which is more versatile if you'd like to try a few tracks.

Dressing for cold-weather cycling

There's no need for pro cycling kit. A few simple habits are enough to stay warm and comfortable.

The three-layer system

1. A breathable base layer (technical T-shirt or fine wool) to wick away sweat. Avoid cotton, which stays damp and chills you.
2. A warm mid layer: a light fleece or thin jumper.
3. A windproof jacket, ideally water-repellent. This is the most important item when the tramontane is blowing.

The idea is to be able to take a layer off or put it back on depending on your effort and how exposed you are to the wind.

Hands, feet and head come first

• Gloves: your hands are constantly exposed to the wind on the handlebars. Windproof gloves make all the difference.
• A neck warmer or buff, which you can pull up over your nose if needed.
• A thin beanie or helmet liner that fits under your helmet.
• Warm socks and closed shoes.

Free helmet with Artimon Bike

A helmet is lent free of charge with your hire. In winter it also offers a little protection from the cold, especially with a thin beanie underneath.

See and be seen

Days are short from November to March. Plan to be back well before dusk, and bring a hi-vis vest or light-coloured clothing to stay visible, particularly on sections shared with cars.

Your winter day bag

• A water bottle (you feel less thirsty in winter, but you still get dehydrated)
• A hot drink in a flask, for a break overlooking the lagoon
• Snacks (dried fruit, bars, biscuits)
• Sunglasses: the low winter sun is dazzling, and they protect your eyes from the wind
• Sun cream and lip balm, as the wind dries out your skin
• A charged phone, as batteries drain faster in the cold

A few winter ride ideas from Marseillan

The Lido greenway

The perfect family ride: flat, safe, between sea and lagoon. On days with a north-westerly wind, bear in mind that the Lido is very exposed. Ideally, pick a calm day to make the most of it.

Marseillan harbour and village

A short, pleasant outing for younger children: the quaysides, the boats, the narrow streets of the old village. The Maison Noilly Prat, on the harbour, is open all year round (except 1 May, 25 December and 1 January): an ideal visit for adults after a bike ride, or when the wind picks up too much.

A nature outing around the Bagnas

For bird lovers, the Bagnas nature reserve in Marseillan is a prime spot for watching flamingos and wading birds. Bring binoculars and respect the peace of this protected site.

Bike hire in November in Marseillan: how it works at Artimon Bike

Good news if you're looking for bike hire in November in Marseillan or at any other time during the winter: Artimon Bike is open every day, from 9:30am to 12pm and from 2:30pm to 6:30pm. You'll find us at Quai de Toulon, Zone Technique du Port, 34340 Marseillan.

Our hire prices (VAT included)

| Bike | Half day | Day | 3 days | 5 days | Week | |---|---|---|---|---|---| | Children's bike | 6 € | 10 € | 27 € | 40 € | 55 € | | Classic bike | 12 € | 20 € | 46 € | 85 € | 112 € | | Mountain bike | 15 € | 25 € | 60 € | 90 € | 140 € | | Electric bike | 22 € | 35 € | 90 € | 140 € | 196 € | | Electric mountain/hybrid bike | 28 € | 45 € | 120 € | 190 € | 252 € |

In winter, the half day is often the best option: set off in the early afternoon, when it's mildest, and get back before the chill sets in. If you're staying several days, the 3-day, 5-day or weekly rates give you the freedom to pick the least windy days.

Book with peace of mind

• Book online at artimonbike.com
• 50 % deposit
• Free cancellation up to 48 hours before: handy when the winter weather plays up

And if your own bike needs a little servicing, we repair all makes, and we sell tyres and inner tubes, electric bikes and second-hand bikes.

In a nutshell: winter, Thau's best-kept cycling secret

Quiet paths, superb light, mild Mediterranean weather and flamingos by the water: winter has everything to delight cyclists who like to take their time. With a good windproof jacket, gloves, an eye on the forecast and, why not, an electric bike to take on the tramontane, you'll enjoy the Étang de Thau in a way few visitors ever do.

Fancy giving it a try? Book your bike at artimonbike.com or contact us by phone or WhatsApp on 06 71 32 65 47. The whole Artimon Bike team looks forward to welcoming you on Marseillan harbour, every day, to recommend the right bike and ride for you. See you on the cycle paths!